Buying a used car anywhere in the world? This is the same 60-point inspection professional buyers use – no tools needed for most checks, and it works whether you’re in a dealer lot in Toronto, a car souk in Dubai, or a private driveway in Manchester. Print it, or open it on your phone next to the car.
What should I check before even seeing the car?
Check the paperwork trail first – it kills more bad deals than any mechanical fault. Verify the seller’s ID matches the registration document, look up the vehicle history by VIN (accident records, odometer readings, finance owed), and confirm the service book has stamps or digital records at sensible intervals.
- VIN on the registration matches the VIN at the base of the windscreen and on the door pillar sticker.
- Outstanding finance check – in most countries a car with unpaid finance can be repossessed from you.
- Recall check on the manufacturer’s website (free in nearly every country).
- Import history – a recently imported car may have hidden flood or accident damage from another market.
How do I spot accident damage?
Look down the side of the car in low light – ripples in reflections reveal filler and resprays. Then check the details repairers miss:
- Panel gaps: run a finger along each gap – they should be even left vs right.
- Paint: colour or texture differences between adjacent panels; overspray on rubber seals.
- Bolts: scratched or freshly painted bolt heads on wings, doors and bonnet hinges mean panels came off.
- Welds in the boot floor and under the bonnet should look factory-neat, not hand-made.
- Windscreen and light stamps: all glass usually carries the same brand and year code – one odd unit means a replacement.
What are the signs of flood damage?
Smell first, then look under things. A musty smell under new air freshener, mud or silt under carpets and the spare wheel, fogging inside lights, corrosion on seat rails and under-dash connectors, and grit in the seatbelt webbing when pulled fully out are classic flood tells.
What engine checks can I do without tools?
- Cold start test: ask for the car not to be warmed up before you arrive. Blue smoke at start-up = oil burning; white sweet-smelling smoke = possible head gasket.
- Oil cap: milky mayonnaise under the cap suggests coolant mixing with oil.
- Coolant: should be clean and coloured, never brown or oily.
- Leaks: look under the car after it has stood for ten minutes.
- Belts and hoses: cracking rubber is a sign of skipped maintenance.
- Idle: should settle smooth and steady within a minute.
What should I test on the drive?
Drive at least 20–30 minutes, including one fast road. Test: cold brakes (no pulling or grinding), steering straight-line stability with hands lightly on the wheel, gear changes (manual: no crunching; automatic: no flaring or thumps), clutch bite point (very high = worn), suspension over bumps (one rebound, no clonks), and every electrical item – windows, AC (must blow genuinely cold), infotainment, cameras, and all warning lights at ignition-on (a missing engine-light bulb is a classic trick).
What extra checks does a used EV need?
Battery health is 80% of a used EV’s value. Ask for a battery state-of-health (SoH) report – most brands can generate one at a dealer, and many cars show it in a service menu. Check: remaining range at 100% vs the original spec, DC fast-charge speed (degraded packs charge slower), charging cable and home charger included, and battery warranty transfer (typically 8 years / 160,000 km from first registration).
How do I use faults to negotiate?
Price the faults, don’t just mention them. Tyres near the limit are a known cost; so is a due timing belt or brake service. In most markets, quoting the repair cost and asking for it off the price works far better than a vague “can you do better?” Walk away power is real: there is always another car.
FAQ
Should I pay for a professional inspection?
If the car costs more than a month’s salary – yes. A pre-purchase inspection costs a fraction of one repair and exists in nearly every country (automobile clubs, dealer workshops, or mobile inspectors).
Is a dealer safer than a private seller?
Dealers usually give you legal warranty rights (varies by country); private sales are cheaper but usually “sold as seen”. The checklist matters more in private sales.
What single check matters most?
The VIN/history check. A perfect-driving car with hidden finance or a rewound odometer is a worse buy than an honest car with worn brakes.
